November 30, 2017 | Sidney Sherborne
Windmill Hill is a small crag just outside of Woodhouse Eaves and close to Beacon Hill and Forest Rock. The crag is slate, and has a few f2 (VB) rambles and plenty of harder problems f6B to f7C (V4 to V9). The landings are good but the crag is often dirty and a stiff brushing is required to make it climbable. Some holds can stay wet even though it hasn't rained for days. The crag is in better condition in summer but beware that midges can be a issue.
The problems centre around an overhanging arete. Climbing the arete on its left is the classic of the crag a weighs in at f7A (V6), and is easier for the tall. Other good climbs include Windmill Face f6C (V5) and Right Wall f6B (V4). All the problems are fairly sharp so good skin or a strong mind are recommended.
The crag is down the hill below an old windmill, built in 1863 and destroyed by fire in 1945. The stone base of the windmill has been converted into a viewing platform and is open on Sundays throughout the summer months from 10am-4pm.
Park at Beacon Hill & Broombriggs Farm Country Park (GPS Coordinates). Walk across the field, through some gates and to the stile (GPS Coordinates). Follow the paths through the woods to the crag (GPS Coordinates). If you find yourself at the windmill, the crag is just down the hill.
35 minute drive from Warwick Sport
Parking costs £2.50, or park on Beacon Road to avoid paying
Take a brush