Ticknall Lime Yards

March 9, 2018 | Sidney Sherborne

So we went to check out Carver's Rocks, a soft-sandstone crag 50 minutes drive from campus which we had heard had been bolted. It was indeed bolted, but was totally filthy and sopping wet. Disappointed but not wanting to waste the day we checked UKClimbing.com for nearby crags and found Ticknall Lime Yards. 6 minutes from Carver's Rocks, limestone bouldering. Excited at the prospect of a limestone climbing venue so close to campus, we set off into the woods to seek out the three climbing areas which had been logged. Long story short, the problems were are all utterly filthy even though they look decent. We don't recommend going here. The desperate can find route information on UKClimbing.com.

The Bridge Area - GPS Coordinates

Utter choss. More like soft sandstone than limestone. Don't bother.

Riley's Close - GPS Coordinates

Problems are on the lip of an enormous and terrifying cave. They look good but unfortunately the starts to them involve leaning out over an intimidating drop into the pool of water in the bottom of the cave. You wouldn't want to fall off. To compound all this the holds are all filthy. Deeper in the cave might make a cool dry-tooling venue.

The Shattered Block - GPS Coordinates

The only semi-decent bouldering at the crag. An okay 5+ and a 6A+ traverse. Also a 6C+ which was initially compelling but proved to be so dirty to be impossible to climb. A discarded dust-pan brush indicated others have had similar experiences.

Logistics:

  • 50 minute drive from Warwick Sport

  • Park on Main Street (GPS Coordinates/Streetview). Walk down this road to access the crag (Streetview)

  • The wood is a maze. Best to navigate it using the GPS coordinates of the different areas and the Google Maps app