November 20, 2017 | Sidney Sherborne
Oaks Pinnacle is located 45 minutes drive away from campus in Charnwood Lodge National Nature Reserve. Situated next to a beautiful oak tree, the crag consists of the main pinnacle, a jumble of smaller boulders and another isolated pinnacle. Oaks Pinnacle itself is made up of two massive granite boulders stacked on top of each other (anyone out there know how this happens?) - if you peep into the central break and you can see all the way through to the other side. The rock is green at the best of times and lichenous in autumn and winter so be sure to take a brush for the harder problems. Despite its greenness the rock is of good quality, unpolished, and very grippy.
As we approached the pinnacle I was initially sceptical about how much climbing was going to be had. I needn't have worried, as there was more than enough for a short autumn day. Oaks Pinnacle has five high-quality up-routes: four at VS 4c and one VDiff, which is also the descent. Though these routes have trad grades they are only six meters in height and can safely be bouldered. The main pinnacle also has two worthwhile girdle traverses at different heights. Just to the left of Oaks Pinnacle is a jumble of smaller boulders which contain some good problems. Clint's Cave f6a+ (V3) climbs out of the small cave (make sure to try the extension) and Flat Rock f4+ (V0) climbs the impressive projecting overhanging rock. Harder Flat Rock eliminates are detailed on UKClimbing's entry on Oaks Pinnacle, including campus problems for all you gorillas out there. The Isolated Pinnacle can be found by following the vague path below Clint's Cave and Flat Rock to the left. The path runs uphill to the pinnacle (GPS Coordinates). The granite this pinnacle is made of is exceptionally good. Try and climb all four faces and traverse it with hands away from the top.
Due to the quality of the problems, its size and its setting, I reckon Oaks Pinnacle is the best Leicester crag I've visited so far. The only real downside is that the approach involves walking down the side of a 50 mile-per-hour road, part of which does not have a safe area for pedestrians. Most cars slow down when they see you but at one point some nutter tried to overtake a more conscientious motorist and came a bit too close to us for comfort. Be careful.
Park at the Charley Road crossroads (GPS Coordinates) and walk down Abbey Road sticking to the pedestrian zone on the right hand side of the road. At the junction with Oaks Road the pedestrian zone disappears so take care. Continue walking down Abbey Road until you see a gap in the wall on the left with a green gate (GPS Coordinates). Walk down this path for a short distance until you come across a stake indicating a public footpath (GPS Coordinates). Rather than go the direction it indicates, branch left down a path which runs parallel with a wall. Follow this for a few minutes to reach Oaks Pinnacle (GPS Coordinates).
45 minute drive from Warwick Sport
Park at the Charley Road crossroads (GPS Coordinates)
12 minute walk down Abbey Road, followed by 5 minute walk to the Pinnacle
Take a brush to clean key holds
Our Recommended Routes:
Central Route VS 4c
Black Back Sit-Start f5 (V1)
Clint's Cave Extension f6B (V4)
Flat Rock Right Hand Sit-Start f4+ (V0)
Flat Campus f5+ (V2)