December 7, 2017 | Sidney Sherborne
Forest Rock is 50 minutes away from Warwick Sport and is the premier (only?) hard climbing venue local to the University. The crag is an old slate quarry located in the sleepy town of Woodhouse Eaves and is very close to Beacon Hill and Windmill Hill. A good venue to pick a hard project to work towards for the term/year. Access is a bit sensitive so try to be quiet, don't visit in large groups and don't swear too loudly when you're inevitably spat off a glassy hold or fall mid finger-jam.
Forest Rock has a few good lower grade problems but the bulk of the problems are f6C+ (V5) and above. Sorcerer f5+ (V2), Saucy f5+ (V2) and Saucy Sit-Start f6B (V4) are all very good. Intermediate grade routes include Sorcerer f6C+ (V5), Stake House f7A (V6) and Cracked Up f7B (V8). Other (reportedly) good hard routes are Heathern Chemistry f7C+ (V10), Enchantress f7C+ (V10) and Anti-Hero f7C (V9). The crag also has the hardest route in Leicestershire, Ladybird Orgy f8B+ (V14), which starts in the very back of the cave and traverses out to finish up Sorceress f7A+ (V7).
Many of the problems are the start of trad routes, the best of which are reportedly: Sorcerer E1 5b, Definitely Not E2 5b, Saucy E3 5c and Sorceress E6 6b.
Saucy Sit-Start f6B (V4)
50 minute drive from Warwick Sport
Park roadside at Church Hill (GPS Coordinates)
Walk up this green path to the crag (Streetview)
Niall Grimes - Boulder Britain
Geoff Mason and Ken Vickers - Leicestershire Climbs - Online Copy
Our Recommended Routes:
Sorcerer f5+ (V2)
Saucy f5+ (V2) and Sit-Start f6B (V4)
Cracked Up f7B (V8)
Thanks to Niamh Gibson for contributing photos!