March 8, 2018 | Sidney Sherborne
In October last year we brought you a guide to Cademan Woods Area 1. Today we bring you Cademan Woods Area 3. To reiterate, Cademan Woods is only 50 minutes from campus and is fully of great little granite boulders. Though they look green and mossy, they are in fact in great condition and quite sharp! In our opinion, the boulder problems in Area 3 are really, really good and it should be considered a must visit for those operating at 6B/V4 or above. Please see the Leicestershire Climbs PDF guidebook for topo.
Park in the layby where Turolough Road becomes Warren Lane (GPS Coordinates) and walk along the road towards Swannymote Road. After about 4 minutes the boulders should be clearly visible just to the right of the road.
The first block you should see is overhanging wall. Sadly we found the routes Overhanging Wall 7A/V6 and the direct 7A+/V7 to be wet due to seepage. This was the only boulder we found to seep. We did get to have a go on Overhanging Arete 6A+/V3 which was a great problem.
Just left of Overhanging Wall is an obvious diamond shaped block. Climbing this from a crouched start on the low holds is Diamond Shield f5+/V2 which is an excellent problem with really enjoyable climbing. Climbing it eliminating the left arête is a great 6C/V5 which took us some working out. Eliminating the right arête also goes at 6C/V5 but this wasn't in the guidebook PDF. It's always worth checking UKC for extra problems! There's also Hard As Diamond 7A+/V7 which tackles the left arête on its right.
Just left again is Gully Block. The traverse on the front is now mossy due to a tree falling on it. The Gully Prow 6B+/V4 was climbable once we'd moved a half broken branch slightly out of the way; another really good problem.
The Roof Boulder
Left again is a really obvious roof with three brilliant problems for the Bear Rock climber. Big holds on a Panel 3 angle - brilliant! Working out how to sit-start them without using any of the footblocks (or cheating!!) was a great challenge and yielded a funky sequence we won't spoil. Ram 6B/V4 uses the holds on the left to get established and top out, Tron 6C/V5 uses small central holds to finish direct and Flynn 6B+/V4 traverses out right in bum-scraping style. All great problems. A must visit for the aspiring Panel 3 enthusiast.
Mike's Little Arete Boulder
Slightly further into the woods behind Gully Block is Mike's Little Arete. This boulder isn't properly labelled in the topo so we will describe it here. Mike's Little Arete 7A+/V7 climbs the left arête from a bunched low start. Flake Pop 6B/V4 is a brilliant and powerful one mover which climbs the flakes just right of the arête from sitting, without any of the right hand flakes or footblock. Mike's Seams 6A/V3 is another good powerful problem just to the right; sit-start, no footblock. Big Flake f4/VB tackles the big flake right again from sitting without the footblock. To the right of this block and a bit further into the wood is a teardrop shaped boulder. The Power of Juan (listed as 7A/V6 on UKC, but more like 6B/V4, assuming I did it right) sit-starts this boulder without the footblocks.
50 minute drive from Warwick Sport
Park in a layby close to where Turolough Road becomes Warren Lane - (GPS Coordinates)
Try to go on a windy day to minimise midges
Geoff Mason and Ken Vickers - Leicestershire Climbs - Online Copy
Our Recommended Routes:
Do them all. They're great
Thanks to Niamh Gibson for contributing photos.